Even the dreaded winter lurgy could not keep me away from the launch of Jimmy D’s SS 12/13 collection, Rising Sun, Melting Moon, held at AUT’s Gallery Three. As opposed to a runway show, the event was presented as an exhibition. Models were centered around four different scenes, constantly shifting, allowing viewers to not only come in closer to the clothing, but also to get immersed in the ambiance which Jimmy D created with set design and music.
The name of this collection, Rising Sun, Melting Moon gives the first impression of a Japanese influence, and this isn’t wrong, but it’s also not as literal as one might think. Blinding fluoro pink, , clear PVC, mesh and novelty jewelry (donut earrings!) seem to have been borrowed from Harajuku cybergoths (Fruits Magazine anyone?) and is a perfectly fitting way for Jimmy D, whose style has constantly drawn from the dark side of the street in terms of punk and Gothic culture, to incorporate incoming trends for the season, namely neon color, futuristic texture, and 90′s reminiscing.
There is, of course, a more sombre undertone as well, with characteristic soft draping navy and black dresses. A unisex (I say this because the one boy model was wearing this but I covet this myself) silk over-sized t-shirt features an east-meets-west print with an artfully arranged mixture of greco-roman statues, and creatures like carp and cranes.
All of the ensembles were paired with boots by Buffalo, whose 4-5 inch platforms were made extremely popular worldwide in the 90′s by the Spice Girls and are making somewhat of a comeback.
Styling wise, all the models had blonde, slicked back hair, and make-up was very heavy on the highlighting powder, and was used almost in the same way as a bronzer would down the nose and on the upper cheekbones, like they had been bathed in moonlight, as opposed to sun. The day/night theme continues with the models’ hands covered in black paint just past the knuckles and holographic silver nails. Holographic and smiley face tape was used to give models comically angsty eyebrows, which fits the aesthetic for sure!
Nathalie Gregory
